Virtual Fitting Program을 활용한 치파오(旗袍)의 가상 착의평가 및 패턴개발연구 (A Study on the Virtual Fitting Evaluation and the Development of Qipao Pattern Using Virtual Fitting Program)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국디자인문화학회
· 수록지 정보 : 한국디자인문화학회지 / 23권 / 4호 / 593 ~ 608페이지
· 저자명 : WUNAN, 서추연

초록

치파오는 중국의 대표적인 민속의상으로 세계적으로알려진 의상이다. 중국의 영향력이 커지면서 치파오에대한 관심도 증가하고 있으며 해외 컬렉션에서도 좋은반응을 얻으면서 젊은이들의 관심도 높아지고 있다.
이에 본 연구에서는 중국 20대 여성들의 선호도를반영한 치파오 패턴을 개발하고자 하였으며 연구방법으로는 패턴비교분석과 Virtual Fitting Program을 활용한 가상착의 평가를 실시하였다.
치파오의 패턴비교분석결과, 유의적인 차이가 인정된 항목은 앞판의 앞목둘레, 앞품, 가슴둘레, 엉덩이둘레의 4항목, 뒷면의 뒷목너비, 어깨길이, 가슴둘레, 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레의 5항목, 칼라와 소매의 칼라둘레, 앞⋅뒤암홀둘레항목 등 총 12항목으로 분석되었다. 가상착의 평가 및 Self-test결과, 기성복패턴은 전체적으로 치수가 작고 교재패턴은 여유량이 많았으며 전체적으로 비교적 좋은 평가를 받은 것은 패턴 C였다.
전문가와 피험자의 평가분석 결과에 따라 최종 패턴을 개발하였다. 최종패턴의 치수는 다음과 같다.
앞면: 앞목너비는 7㎝, 수식은 B/12이며, 앞목깊이는8㎝, 수식은 B/12+1㎝로 설정하였다. 어깨경사는 4.5 ㎝, 수식은 B/20이며, 어깨길이는 12.5㎝로 기성복과교재패턴의 평균치로 설정하였다. 어깨높이는 16.2㎝, 수식은 B/6+2.2㎝이며 앞품은 17㎝, 수식은 B/6+3㎝이다. 가슴둘레는 22.5㎝로 수식은 B/4+1.5㎝이며, 허리둘레는 19㎝, 수식은 W/4+2㎝, 엉덩이둘레는 23.5㎝, 수식은 H/4+1㎝로 설정하였다.
뒷면: 뒷목너비는 7.5㎝, 수식은 B/12이며, 뒷목깊이는 2.5㎝ 수식은 B/32 이다. 뒷목둘레는 8.5㎝, 어깨경사는 4㎝, 수식은 B/20-0.6㎝이다. 어깨길이는 12.5㎝ (앞면과 동일), 어깨높이는 18㎝, 수식은 B/6+4이다.
가슴둘레는 21.5㎝, 수식은 B/4+0.5㎝이며, 허리둘레는16.5㎝, 수식은 W/4-0.5이다. 엉덩이둘레는 24㎝, 수식은 H/4+1.5㎝로 설정하였다.
칼라: 칼라높이는 4㎝로 패턴 A와 같고, 앞목 올림분량은 2.5㎝로 패턴 C, F와 같다.
소매: 소매길이는 20㎝(교재패턴), 소매산높이는 14 ㎝, 수식은 AH/4+2.5㎝이며, 소매너비는 31.3㎝(기성복과 교재패턴의 평균치)로 설정하였다.

영어초록

Qipao is known worldwide as a folk costume representative of China. As China's influence grows, interest in Qipao has also increased, attracting youngsters as they have received favorable responses from overseas collections.
Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop a Qipao pattern that reflects the preference of women in their twenties in China.
As a research method, we performed analyze a pattern comparison of Qipao and evaluate a virtual fitting using Virtual Fitting Program.
The results of this study are as follow.
The results of comparative analysis of Qipao pattern showed that the significant differences on 12 items: front neckline, front width, front bust, front waist, front hip, back neck width, shoulder length, back bust, back waist, back hip, collar length, front armhole, back armhole In the virtual fitting evaluation and self-test results, ready-to-made patterns showed too tight and textbook patterns showed loose fit and the pattern C was relatively good overall.
The results of development pattern of Qipao according to the comparative pattern and wearing evaluation are as follows.
Front side: The width of front neck was 7㎝, the formula was set to B/12, the depth of front neck was 8㎝, and the formula was set to B/12 +1㎝. It was set by the average of textbook pattern to the shoulder slope was 4.5㎝, the formula was B/20, and the shoulder length was 12.5㎝. The shoulder height was 16.2㎝, the formula was B/6 + 2.2㎝, the front width was 17㎝, and the formula was B/6 + 3㎝. The bust size was 22.5㎝, and the formula was B/4+1.5㎝, the waist size was 19㎝, the formula was W/4+2㎝, the hip size was 23.5㎝, and the formula was H/4 + 1㎝.
Back side: The wide of back neck was 7.4㎝, the formula was B/12, the length of back neck was 2.5㎝, the formula was B/32. The back neck size was 8.5㎝, the shoulder slope was 4㎝, the formula was B/20-0.2㎝.
The shoulder length was 12.5㎝ (same as front side), the shoulder height was 18㎝, the formula was B/6+4㎝. The bust size was 21.5㎝, the formula was B/4+0.5㎝, the waist size was 16.5㎝ and the formula was W/4-0.5㎝. The hip size was set to 24㎝, and the formula was set to H/4+1.5㎝.
Collar: The height of the collar is 4㎝, which is the same as the pattern A, and the lifting amount of the front neck point is 2.5㎝, which is the same as the patterns C and F.
Sleeve: The sleeve length was set at 20㎝ (textbook pattern), the sleeve height was 14㎝, the formula was AH/4+3㎝, and the sleeve width was 31.3㎝ (average of the ready-made pattern and textbook pattern).

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