실용화를 위한 쪽 염료의 관한 연구 (Study on the Development of Practical Application of Indigo Dyes)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 복식문화학회
· 수록지 정보 : 복식문화연구 / 19권 / 3호 / 612 ~ 621페이지
· 저자명 : 이상필, 김순희

초록

The process of making or cultivating indigo dyes is very cumbersome and complex. The dye extraction and dyeing methods using general plant dye, moth repellent dye, fast acting natural dye, and other dyes are very different. This research investigates the extraction of indigo dye and liquid dye extraction of polygonum(indigo) plants using calcium oxide water. While extracting indigo dye the concentration of purified indigo dye may be controlled by adjusting the pH level. Due to the various uses of dyes the adjustment of surface color must be considered. In regard to the change according to different concentrations of reducing agents, it was found that cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics show the highest color difference at 0.4% and 0.3% respectively. As the reduction temperature increases, the color difference increases as well. The maximum color difference was found to appear at 90℃. Cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics showed 70.55 and 67.01 respectively. The color difference increases as the concentration of dyes increases, but at a concentration of 300%, cotton fabrics was found to show 6.22PB in H value using the Munsell color system, containing purple and blue color. The pH of the polygonum dyes extracted through this experiment were adjusted by adding calcium oxide to the experimental water, without directly adding calcium oxide to the liquid polygonum extract. In a refine state, it was mixed with polygonum extract to extract a more refine and highly concentrated indigo dye. When lye and reducing agents are added to extracted indigo dye and sealed for long-term storage, it can be effective and easily used for dyeing.

영어초록

The process of making or cultivating indigo dyes is very cumbersome and complex. The dye extraction and dyeing methods using general plant dye, moth repellent dye, fast acting natural dye, and other dyes are very different. This research investigates the extraction of indigo dye and liquid dye extraction of polygonum(indigo) plants using calcium oxide water. While extracting indigo dye the concentration of purified indigo dye may be controlled by adjusting the pH level. Due to the various uses of dyes the adjustment of surface color must be considered. In regard to the change according to different concentrations of reducing agents, it was found that cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics show the highest color difference at 0.4% and 0.3% respectively. As the reduction temperature increases, the color difference increases as well. The maximum color difference was found to appear at 90℃. Cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics showed 70.55 and 67.01 respectively. The color difference increases as the concentration of dyes increases, but at a concentration of 300%, cotton fabrics was found to show 6.22PB in H value using the Munsell color system, containing purple and blue color. The pH of the polygonum dyes extracted through this experiment were adjusted by adding calcium oxide to the experimental water, without directly adding calcium oxide to the liquid polygonum extract. In a refine state, it was mixed with polygonum extract to extract a more refine and highly concentrated indigo dye. When lye and reducing agents are added to extracted indigo dye and sealed for long-term storage, it can be effective and easily used for dyeing.

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