Due to globalization of the modern day life caused by the online revolution of the 21st century, consumers with access to information desire products of more variety, individuality and better quality. In order to respond to such demands of consumers, development of technology and design is becoming important in fabric industry market.
For the growth of Jacquard cloth in such situation, this research aims to make a historical investigation of apparel-purpose Jacquard cloth since 1960s when actual industrialization began after the Korean war. It also aims to view the future trend of Jacquard cloth industry by analyzing its unique characteristics such as the variety of expression methods, shapes, etc., and the industrial value based on the design.
Therefore, in this essay, Jacquard cloth has been theoretically examined based on related documents and evidences. Based on this theoretical examination and evidences, the past and present design trends of Jacquard cloth, which has developed in close relation with the changes in the world fashion design trend since 1960s, have been analyzed. It also analyzes the trend research of foreign Jacquard cloth design through collection/analysis of domestic collections as well as those of Italy, France and America which are forerunners of Jacquard cloth.
As such, Jacquard cloth design has been theoretically and periodically examined, and researches about trends of advanced foreign countries, domestic technology and fabric, pattern and colour have been analyzed comprehensively, to create a view of Jacquard cloth's future trend according to the result.
The details and results of this research is as follows.
Firstly, the abundant colour, detailed pattern and excellent solidity of Jacquard cloth evoke a sense of splendor and luxury. Currently Jacquard cloth is used in various areas as apparel, accessory, interior fabric. The elements that determine the design of Jacquard cloth are colour, fabric, and pattern.
Secondly, most Jacquard cloths of the 1960s mainly comprised of monochromatic and mono-patterned geometric shapes and floral patterns. For the colours, blue, khaki, brown and beige of middle tone were mainly used in general. Also, the fabric tended to have thin width because of low density.
Design of 1970s Jacquard mainly took motif from nature, and geometric shapes such as stripes and dots were also used. Also, development of weaving and dyeing increased the density of Jacquard cloths compared to the past, and the abundant colour as well as the fancy gold colour clearly developed the design compared to the 1960s.
As for 1980s Jacquard cloth design, mainly complex geometric patterns were noticeable. Effected by bold colours, ethnic paisley patterns, and ecology, it showed much more fancy and complex aspect in terms of flower patterns and so on compared to the 1970s. Also because of the influence of the oriental, oriental patterns and achromatic colours were noticeable.
In 1990s, Jacquard cloths were influenced by zen style and minimalism, so use of colours was limited and patterns were simply expressed. Also, increased interest in patterns of paisley and art nouveau style influenced by ethinic and retro, and interest in nature and environment led to more detailed expressions of plant patterns. The influence of futurism also led to the use og metallic colours such as gold and silver.
In 21st century, well-being influenced the use of nature as the motif for Jacquard cloths, and Retro style that evokes retro sentiment came in place as the design trend. Thus, feminine and classic decorative materials as well as silk, artificial silk yarn, classic patterns that express romanticism were all represented in detail and with depth. Improvement in living conditions and cultural contacts led to the application of ethnic patterns and oriental patterns on Jacquard cloth.
The analysis of Jacquard cloth trend from the 1960s to after 2000 showed a recycling phenomena of trend within periodical changes. Also it could be seen that designs become more various and high-class due to technological development and better fashion judgment of consumers.
Thirdly, the following are the characteristics of Jacquard cloth design appeared in modern fashion, examined by world's renown fashion collections from 2006 and 2008 including those of Korea.
Looking at Jacquard cloth designs in Seoul collection showed the dominance of floral patterns influenced by the Romantic, Minimalism, Ecoism, etc., and also the use of simple geometric patterns such as dots and stripes. Also, gold, black and natural colours were mainly used.
Analysis of Milano collection showed that Retro style was the recent main trend of Italian Jacquard cloths designs and so classy fabrics were mainly used. Floral patterns influenced by the Classic and Feminism, and classic damask patterns were mainly used. Also, modern graphic patterns, picturesque floral patterns, dot patterns of various sizes were used. In the case of Italia, classic aspect of the past and the modern aspect of the present seemed to be co-existing, and Retro trend is playing an important role in terms of textile design.
Paris collection analysis showed various aspects such as Oriental, Feminism, Classic, etc. Also many new materials were show cased, and many designs where classic mood was re-interpreted with futuristic characteristics were often seen. Also, Jacquard cloths with designs and gradation effects using artistic techniques were noticeable. Also, more steric Jacquard cloths were attempted as futuristic designs.
Jacquard cloths in New York collection showed a lot of futuristic elements. A lot of metallic materials and steric Jacquard materials were used compared to Italia or France. Also, new attempts were noticeable where opposing elements such as Classic and Futurism, and Feminism and Modernism were harmoniously designed.
Fourth, Korean fabric industry is a key industry with high production, employment and number of enterprises. However, because of the current condition where growth rate slow-down, problem solving is urgently needed. Jacquard cloth industry is widely applied across various areas. Currently it is used partially in fashion and interior areas but more and more the fields are expanding.
Fifth, to compensate for such problems of Korean fabric industries, 2009-2010 new trend of Jacquard cloth's colour, fabric and pattern has been prospected based on the trend prospect of `09-`10 A/W Premiere Vision in NY of CFT and Samsung Design Research Center.
As a result of this research, the trend of Jacquard cloth can be suggested, categorized into colour, fabric and pattern.
First of all, the colours can be suggested in these three thematic categories - Intense, Classic, Neutral.
Next, the fabric trend can be suggested in these five thematic categories - soft and comfortable; Classic and nobility; Jacquard cloth utilizing futuristic materials that express coldness of Plastic and sometimes flexibility, and organic materials of eco-ism; and fancy Jacquard materials with abstract and artistic expressions and decorativeness.
Pattern trend can be suggested in the following five thematic categories - first, big-size damask and floral patterns of classic and majestic feeling; second, structural geometric patterns like seen through a microscope; third, patterns of artistic sentiment such as watercolor, abstract art, ect.; fourth, floral patterns of eco-ism sentiment; last, ethnic patterns which represent each ethnic culture.
In the future, society will change with greater speed and mobility. People will need emotional sanctuary, and even in fashion they will hope to feel the comfort of the past and the peacefulness of nature. Therefore for satisfaction of modern consumers who always desire new and individual items, there will appear new aspect combining Retro, well-being and new materials will emerge.
A design that can stimulate the sentiment of modern people is the most important element in the plan to develop Korean Jacquard industry.
Simply because they seek Retro and well-being, it does not mean modern people will obsess with the past and nature. They want a new change as well, and therefore past, present and future much be creatively and harmoniously expressed in Jacquard cloth designs to suffice the consumer demands.
화장품 브랜드 아이덴티티와 유니폼 이미지 분석
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