≪가례의대식포진질(嘉禮衣襨式鋪陳秩)≫에 나타난 조선 전기 왕비 가례 복식 연구 (A Study on Queen’s Formal Attire for Wedding Ceremony in Early Joseon Dynasty through《Garyeuidaesikpojinjil(嘉禮衣襨式鋪陳秩)》)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국복식학회
· 수록지 정보 : 복식 / 72권 / 4호 / 164 ~ 180페이지
· 저자명 : 오선희

초록

≪Garyeuidaesikpojinjil(嘉禮衣襨式鋪陳秩)≫is an important document explicating the system of royal wedding attire in the period before the Japanese Invasion in the Imjin War. The process of discussing the attire list for Queen Jangryeol’s wedding can be divided into three parts of <Imingamjil(壬寅减秩)>, <Geumgamjil(今 减秩)>, and <utility(實用秩)>. So, we can divide the examination of the changes in the items used in royal weddings in three patrs: before the Imjin War, Queen Inmok's wedding (1602), Queen Jangryeol’s wedding (1638). Considering the characteristics of formal attire and the period of recording, it seems that Noui and Jangsam were prepared in three and four stages, including band and insignia. All bands of unknown use are presumed to have been attached to Jangsam, and it is presumed that Honggeumseondae, Geumdodaikhongradae, Namsadae, and Jahwangdodaikdae were used according to the rank of Jangsam. The use of the Unbongcheopgeum insignia is unknown, but it is presumed that they were attached to Geumwonmunmunnoui or Gyeopjangsam. In hair ornaments, Jangjam, Chae, Daeyo, and Susajji were commonly prepared in three stages according to materials and decorations. Among them, Okbatangchilbojang-geumjangjam, Okbatangchilbojanggeumsojam, Jinjujang-geumchae, Nahab-daeyo, and Jajeokchogeumdodaik-susaji were the most prestigious items, which were used only for the queen's Susik. The Susik of ≪Garyeuidaesikpojinjil≫ was worn together with Noui or Jangsam before the Imjin War, and the scale and usage changed after Queen Inmok’s wedding. While the scale of usage of Susik was reduced, the breadth of situations in which the formal dress was worn was increased due to the production of Jeokui. Therefore, it is presumed that the hair styles for robes other than Jeokui were gradually simplified.

영어초록

≪Garyeuidaesikpojinjil(嘉禮衣襨式鋪陳秩)≫is an important document explicating the system of royal wedding attire in the period before the Japanese Invasion in the Imjin War. The process of discussing the attire list for Queen Jangryeol’s wedding can be divided into three parts of <Imingamjil(壬寅减秩)>, <Geumgamjil(今 减秩)>, and <utility(實用秩)>. So, we can divide the examination of the changes in the items used in royal weddings in three patrs: before the Imjin War, Queen Inmok's wedding (1602), Queen Jangryeol’s wedding (1638). Considering the characteristics of formal attire and the period of recording, it seems that Noui and Jangsam were prepared in three and four stages, including band and insignia. All bands of unknown use are presumed to have been attached to Jangsam, and it is presumed that Honggeumseondae, Geumdodaikhongradae, Namsadae, and Jahwangdodaikdae were used according to the rank of Jangsam. The use of the Unbongcheopgeum insignia is unknown, but it is presumed that they were attached to Geumwonmunmunnoui or Gyeopjangsam. In hair ornaments, Jangjam, Chae, Daeyo, and Susajji were commonly prepared in three stages according to materials and decorations. Among them, Okbatangchilbojang-geumjangjam, Okbatangchilbojanggeumsojam, Jinjujang-geumchae, Nahab-daeyo, and Jajeokchogeumdodaik-susaji were the most prestigious items, which were used only for the queen's Susik. The Susik of ≪Garyeuidaesikpojinjil≫ was worn together with Noui or Jangsam before the Imjin War, and the scale and usage changed after Queen Inmok’s wedding. While the scale of usage of Susik was reduced, the breadth of situations in which the formal dress was worn was increased due to the production of Jeokui. Therefore, it is presumed that the hair styles for robes other than Jeokui were gradually simplified.

참고자료

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