중국 사대명수(四大名繡) 기법에 관한 고찰 - 상수(湘繡)를 중심으로 - (Investigation of the Four Chinese Embroidery Techniques - Focused on Xiang Embroidery -)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국복식학회
· 수록지 정보 : 복식 / 69권 / 4호 / 123 ~ 140페이지
· 저자명 : 셰쓰쓰, 고현진

초록

This thesis aims to study the structure of stitches and the features of Xiang Embroidery, one of four famous Chinese embroidery methods, by investigating documents and practices. The study shows that there are 73 styles of the Xiang Embroidery and five catalogues in total from the Qing Dynasty until now. Xiang Embroidery uses the valuable techniques of Su Embroidery, the picture construction of Yue Embroidery, and the high quality material of Chu Embroidery. What is more, it also incorporates the features of Hunan native characters. We can see that the blending needle is the main needle and the moustache needle is the unique stitch of Xiang Embroidery. The analysis of the works shows that Xiang Embroidery mainly uses 12 needles of flat embroidery. If we are to make a work with hazy landscapes, we will use the blending needle, curtain needle, straight needle and so on. On the contrary, if we are to make a vivid animal or human figure, we will use the moustache needle, hair needle, willow needle, and rotating needle. The flexibility of using each style of needle makes the works of Xiang Embroidery more real and vivid; it offers a full construction of the art and uses sharp colors. Due to the limitation in materials, Xiang Embroidery uses simple needles on clothes such as plate gold needle and seeding needle. The realistic features of the works of Xiang Embroidery are different from the features of Korean traditional stitches. By introducing the techniques of Xiang Embroidery in this thesis, I hope to combine different embroideries from different places to create a simple and popular needle to offer inspiration and reference for modern fashion.

영어초록

This thesis aims to study the structure of stitches and the features of Xiang Embroidery, one of four famous Chinese embroidery methods, by investigating documents and practices. The study shows that there are 73 styles of the Xiang Embroidery and five catalogues in total from the Qing Dynasty until now. Xiang Embroidery uses the valuable techniques of Su Embroidery, the picture construction of Yue Embroidery, and the high quality material of Chu Embroidery. What is more, it also incorporates the features of Hunan native characters. We can see that the blending needle is the main needle and the moustache needle is the unique stitch of Xiang Embroidery. The analysis of the works shows that Xiang Embroidery mainly uses 12 needles of flat embroidery. If we are to make a work with hazy landscapes, we will use the blending needle, curtain needle, straight needle and so on. On the contrary, if we are to make a vivid animal or human figure, we will use the moustache needle, hair needle, willow needle, and rotating needle. The flexibility of using each style of needle makes the works of Xiang Embroidery more real and vivid; it offers a full construction of the art and uses sharp colors. Due to the limitation in materials, Xiang Embroidery uses simple needles on clothes such as plate gold needle and seeding needle. The realistic features of the works of Xiang Embroidery are different from the features of Korean traditional stitches. By introducing the techniques of Xiang Embroidery in this thesis, I hope to combine different embroideries from different places to create a simple and popular needle to offer inspiration and reference for modern fashion.

참고자료

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