대한제국시대 석(舃)의 고찰 및 한국 석의 형태적 특징의 유래 (Morphology of Seok in the Great Han Empire Period and the Origin of the Korean Seok’s Morphological Characteristics)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국복식학회
· 수록지 정보 : 복식 / 63권 / 8호 / 125 ~ 142페이지
· 저자명 : 최연우

초록

Soek(舃: Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in EastAsian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon’s Seok as discussedin previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers’ status, wearing situations, itsmorphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and thenextracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The resultsof the study are as follows.
For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) andNo-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, redSeok(赤舃) was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok(靑舃) with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period.
This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of theuse of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period,and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok’s morphologicalstructure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a resultof the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form inwhich Gu(絇), Eok(繶), Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from thecombination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song(宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods fromWei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurredin the Jin(金) period.

영어초록

Soek(舃: Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in EastAsian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon’s Seok as discussedin previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers’ status, wearing situations, itsmorphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and thenextracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The resultsof the study are as follows.
For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) andNo-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, redSeok(赤舃) was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok(靑舃) with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period.
This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of theuse of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period,and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok’s morphologicalstructure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a resultof the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form inwhich Gu(絇), Eok(繶), Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from thecombination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song(宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods fromWei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurredin the Jin(金) period.

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