편성조직별 봉제게이지 변화에 따른 역학적 특성에 관한 연구 (A Study on Mechanical Properties Based on the Sewing-gauge Change by the Knitting-texture)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국디자인문화학회
· 수록지 정보 : 한국디자인문화학회지 / 14권 / 2호 / 1 ~ 12페이지
· 저자명 : 강숙녀, 권진

초록

This study is to knit the texture used frequently in knitwear production into low gauge and high gauge, give a change to the gauge according to sewing, see the physical properties of each knitting textile, and make a proper selection of sewing gauge that best fits into knitting gauge and texture. 
These gauges were classified into 7-gauged textile and 12-gauged textile accordingly that have a high frequency. Their knitting structures were finely grouped again with plain stitch, 2×1 rib stitch, Milan rib stitch, and full cardigan stitch.
In the sewing, it was done in the direction of wale which has a high production frequency and the sewing gauge was divided by five groups. The average of tensile property and shear property was achieved by measuring them three times according to the KES-FB System for analysis of physical properties about knitting textile after sewing.
It was found that the change in sewing gauge value gave effect on EM, LT, RT, 2HG, and 2HG3 but didn't show much effect on WT and G.
In plain stitch texture, the elongation could be enhanced when the sewing gauge with two grades lower than knitting gauge is selected in case of high gauge knitting textile whereas the sewing gauge with two grades higher than knitting gauge is chosen in case of low gauge knitting fabric. In addition, the elongation became lower in both high gauge knitting and low gauge knitting when selecting the four grades lower sewing gauge than knitting gauge and this can help to apply the textile required for stability in size.
For the high gauged 2×1 rib stitch, it would be appropriate to take the same or two-gauge lowered sewing gauge to knitting gauge. For the case of low gauge knitting textile, it would be preferred to select the sewing gauge with two grades higher than knitting gauge.
The selection of Milan rib stitch should be followed in such a way to have a high stability. Thus, it would be best to opt the four-gauge lowered sewing gauge than knitting gauge for both high gauge knitting production and low gauge knitting production.
For full cardigan stitch, the special care should be taken for elongation. Therefore, in a high gauge knitting texture, the two-gauge lower sewing than knitting gauge would be considered better. On the other hand, in a low gauge knitting texture, the two-gauge higher sewing method than knitting gauge would be preferable.

영어초록

This study is to knit the texture used frequently in knitwear production into low gauge and high gauge, give a change to the gauge according to sewing, see the physical properties of each knitting textile, and make a proper selection of sewing gauge that best fits into knitting gauge and texture. 
These gauges were classified into 7-gauged textile and 12-gauged textile accordingly that have a high frequency. Their knitting structures were finely grouped again with plain stitch, 2×1 rib stitch, Milan rib stitch, and full cardigan stitch.
In the sewing, it was done in the direction of wale which has a high production frequency and the sewing gauge was divided by five groups. The average of tensile property and shear property was achieved by measuring them three times according to the KES-FB System for analysis of physical properties about knitting textile after sewing.
It was found that the change in sewing gauge value gave effect on EM, LT, RT, 2HG, and 2HG3 but didn't show much effect on WT and G.
In plain stitch texture, the elongation could be enhanced when the sewing gauge with two grades lower than knitting gauge is selected in case of high gauge knitting textile whereas the sewing gauge with two grades higher than knitting gauge is chosen in case of low gauge knitting fabric. In addition, the elongation became lower in both high gauge knitting and low gauge knitting when selecting the four grades lower sewing gauge than knitting gauge and this can help to apply the textile required for stability in size.
For the high gauged 2×1 rib stitch, it would be appropriate to take the same or two-gauge lowered sewing gauge to knitting gauge. For the case of low gauge knitting textile, it would be preferred to select the sewing gauge with two grades higher than knitting gauge.
The selection of Milan rib stitch should be followed in such a way to have a high stability. Thus, it would be best to opt the four-gauge lowered sewing gauge than knitting gauge for both high gauge knitting production and low gauge knitting production.
For full cardigan stitch, the special care should be taken for elongation. Therefore, in a high gauge knitting texture, the two-gauge lower sewing than knitting gauge would be considered better. On the other hand, in a low gauge knitting texture, the two-gauge higher sewing method than knitting gauge would be preferable.

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