18세기말 프랑스의 모드 상인(Marchande de modes) 연구 (A Study on Marchande de Modes in the late 18th Century France)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국복식학회
· 수록지 정보 : 복식 / 65권 / 3호 / 15 ~ 27페이지
· 저자명 : 최유진

초록

This study is the first research that examines the fashion manufacturers and merchants of thelate 18th century France. Fashion specialists, (known as) Marchande de modes, started to appearin literature in the mid 18thcenturyandthe profession was officially recognized by the guild systemin 1776. Rose Bertin was elected as the first representative. At the same time, there were twotypes of fashion specialists, tailleur and couturière. Tailleur had monopolized the production ofthe bodice and the skirt, which were the most important female dress parts. On the contrary,couturière only had the right to make petticoats, but they were not allowed to decorate it. In1781, the couturière obtained the right to make and decorate the other parts of the dress, andthis resulted in the two groups fighting over the rights to make dresses. And during this struggle,the Marchand de modes started to appear as a new occupation. Marchande de modes wereprivileged fashion merchants making or selling trimmings for dress and coiffure, and had authorityto make capes and bonnets. Contemporary critics praised their talents for creating innovativeand beautiful fashion styles, while some criticized them as women who just made luxury items.
These records revealed how marchande de modes were viewed during that time.

영어초록

This study is the first research that examines the fashion manufacturers and merchants of thelate 18th century France. Fashion specialists, (known as) Marchande de modes, started to appearin literature in the mid 18thcenturyandthe profession was officially recognized by the guild systemin 1776. Rose Bertin was elected as the first representative. At the same time, there were twotypes of fashion specialists, tailleur and couturière. Tailleur had monopolized the production ofthe bodice and the skirt, which were the most important female dress parts. On the contrary,couturière only had the right to make petticoats, but they were not allowed to decorate it. In1781, the couturière obtained the right to make and decorate the other parts of the dress, andthis resulted in the two groups fighting over the rights to make dresses. And during this struggle,the Marchand de modes started to appear as a new occupation. Marchande de modes wereprivileged fashion merchants making or selling trimmings for dress and coiffure, and had authorityto make capes and bonnets. Contemporary critics praised their talents for creating innovativeand beautiful fashion styles, while some criticized them as women who just made luxury items.
These records revealed how marchande de modes were viewed during that time.

참고자료

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