고부가가치 패션제품개발을 위한 오뜨꾸뛰르 디자이너 복고적 재킷디자인 분석 (An Analysis on Retro Jacket Designs of Haute Couture Designers for the Development of High-Value Added Fashion Products)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국복식학회
· 수록지 정보 : 복식 / 64권 / 3호 / 77 ~ 92페이지
· 저자명 : 김언정, 유영선

초록

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers’high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the designcomponent items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s tothe 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changedwhile leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the widthand length of the jacket’s shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette.
Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole wasplaying an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleevesand the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that canexpress the fit of a jacket and the designer’s creativity, The starting point position of the dartand the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the positionbeyond B.P. depending on the designer’s creativity and techniques, deriving the changes ofthe silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was athree-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, wasan important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width andthe height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in theneck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, thegorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailoredcollar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collarwere related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collaroutline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width ofthe sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

영어초록

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers’high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the designcomponent items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s tothe 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changedwhile leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the widthand length of the jacket’s shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette.
Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole wasplaying an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleevesand the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that canexpress the fit of a jacket and the designer’s creativity, The starting point position of the dartand the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the positionbeyond B.P. depending on the designer’s creativity and techniques, deriving the changes ofthe silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was athree-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, wasan important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width andthe height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in theneck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, thegorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailoredcollar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collarwere related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collaroutline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width ofthe sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

참고자료

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