저천단방파제 거치로 인한 해양 수환경 변화 수치해석: 개방해역에 형성되는 이안류를 중심으로 (Numerical Analysis of the Changes in Sea Wave Conditions by the Presence of LCB [Low Crested Breaker]: Centered on Rip Current Formed at the Open Inlet between LCB)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : (사)한국연안방재학회
· 수록지 정보 : 한국연안방재학회지 / 7권 / 4호 / 181 ~ 193페이지
· 저자명 : 조용준

초록

In this study, we numerically analyzed the sea wave conditions change induced by the presence of LCB[Low Crested Breaker] with an emphasis on the rip current formed at the open inlet between LCB. The current formed at the open inlet between LCB went through a lot of changes, and these changes can be summarized as the phase lag behind LCB, intensified offshore directed flow and weakened shoreward flow, increased duration period of offshore directed flow. The growth rate of offshore directed flow reaches its maximum in RUN 1D where the highest transmitted ratio of incoming wave energy is anticipated due to the low crest height of LCB. The growth rate is around 35%, and the maximum growth rate is observed to occur near the sea bottom. Numerical results show that offshore directed flow persists for nearly 75% of unit wave period in RUN 1D where Cnoidal waves of the shortest period is used as incoming waves. Shoreward flow most visibly weakened in RUN 1D where transmitted ratio is relatively high, and from these facts we can induce that the rip current formed at the open inlet between LCB is strongly correlated with a transmitted ratio of incoming wave energy. It is also shown that the period of incoming waves bears a great impact on the rip current formed at open inlet, and an intensified offshore directed flow and weakened shoreward flow are most visible in RUN 2D where LCB is exposed to relatively longer Cnoidal waves. The triggers of these tendencies are traced back to the facts that as waves are getting longer, the water volume above mean water level increases and as a result, the transmitted mass per unit wave period is getting increased, leading the lager wave set-up at down wave side of LCB and intensified rip current.

영어초록

In this study, we numerically analyzed the sea wave conditions change induced by the presence of LCB[Low Crested Breaker] with an emphasis on the rip current formed at the open inlet between LCB. The current formed at the open inlet between LCB went through a lot of changes, and these changes can be summarized as the phase lag behind LCB, intensified offshore directed flow and weakened shoreward flow, increased duration period of offshore directed flow. The growth rate of offshore directed flow reaches its maximum in RUN 1D where the highest transmitted ratio of incoming wave energy is anticipated due to the low crest height of LCB. The growth rate is around 35%, and the maximum growth rate is observed to occur near the sea bottom. Numerical results show that offshore directed flow persists for nearly 75% of unit wave period in RUN 1D where Cnoidal waves of the shortest period is used as incoming waves. Shoreward flow most visibly weakened in RUN 1D where transmitted ratio is relatively high, and from these facts we can induce that the rip current formed at the open inlet between LCB is strongly correlated with a transmitted ratio of incoming wave energy. It is also shown that the period of incoming waves bears a great impact on the rip current formed at open inlet, and an intensified offshore directed flow and weakened shoreward flow are most visible in RUN 2D where LCB is exposed to relatively longer Cnoidal waves. The triggers of these tendencies are traced back to the facts that as waves are getting longer, the water volume above mean water level increases and as a result, the transmitted mass per unit wave period is getting increased, leading the lager wave set-up at down wave side of LCB and intensified rip current.

참고자료

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