고대 동아시아 복식비교에 의한 고조선 복식의 전통 (Tradition of Old Joseon Dressing According to the Comparison with that of Ancient East Asia)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 고조선단군학회
· 수록지 정보 : 고조선단군학 / 16권 / 29 ~ 98페이지
· 저자명 : 박선희

초록

This paper focuses on the content and level of Old Joseon dressing culture, a country having comparatively pure culture of its own, by comparing with that of other neighboring countries. As a result, it was identified that the common view of the original form of ancient Korean garments being descended from garments of China or barbarian garments of northern China was not true.
The Old Joseon's dressing style can be summed up as followed. The Old Joseon people wore byun(弁), check(幘), or jeolpung(折風) in almost all of the regions around the Korean Peninsula and Manchuria. The ancient Koreans seemed to practice the same customs by considering the fact that the four countries, ancient Korea, Northern Buyeo, Beckjae, Shila inhabiting in the Korean Peninsula and Manchuria, placed a feather on their jeolpung. Later, the ruling class used feathers made of gold, silver, or gilt bronze.
In Old Joseon, people sewed round shaped or leaf shaped ornamental buttons on not only their hats but also on their clothes, armors, shoes, and bow cases, or made them as earrings altogether forming a magnificent and high-standard dressing style since 25th century. This dressing style is a distinctive feature of the ancient Koreans that cannot be seen in China or other northern regions. Later, round or leaf shaped ornaments with jeolpung became a major style of gold crowns. Therefore, it can be said that gold crowns are not accomplished by the external influence, but instead an expression of ancient Korean peoples' intrinsic style, leaf-looking ornamental button style, and trunk style through their ceremonies as well as the widespread change in hats.
Ancient Korean peoples' outfit is categorized as sam(衫), yoo(襦), and poh(袍). Men wore sam, women yoo, and poh, which is characterized by its long and wide sleeves, was worn both by men and women.
Closure and sleeves were important factors in discussing the origin of ancient Korean dressing. Old Joseon people wore large sleeves and this was followed later by ancient Korea, Bekjae, and Shila. Such comparison and inspection on closure and sleeves are important factors in revising the traditionally accepted theory of ancient Koreans' dressing being originated from garments of northern Chinese barbarians.
Pants and dresses, which are ancient Koreans' lower garments, are not the products of Chinese or northern region's influence, but instead an intrinsic inheritance of Koreans tracing back to the Old Joseon Period. Ancient Korean men wore pants as outfits and women wore them inside their dresses.
The Chinese mainly wore narrow pants since Sang(商) Period until Spring and Autumn(春秋戰國) Period. During Jin and Han(秦․漢) Period, they wore relatively wider pants, but tied them at the knees. Nevertheless, such Chinese styled pants are not seen in ancient Korean dressing.
Regardless of class, ancient Koreans tied their pants at the end during 6th century until they started to stitch around their pants instead of tying in 7th century. There were wide and normal pants and long pants and pants that were tied under the knees. It is thought that the width and length are differentiated for convenience in different types of work rather than a way of showing social status.
Like pants, it has been cleared that ancient Koreans' dress style was not a product of Chinese or northern region's influence. The characteristics of ancient Koreans' dress style are as followed. Ancient Korean women always wore pants as undergarments and dresses as outfits and these dresses were largely divided into those with lines at the waist and others with lines at the edge.
The following differences appear when comparing ancient Korean dresses and Chinese and norther region's dresses. Only women wore dresses in ancient Korea, but both men and women wore them in China. Both ancient Koreans and Chinese wore dresses under outfits and upper garments. But, Chinese upper garments were short in length and did not have stitches while ancient Korean upper garments were long and all dresses had stitches around the edges. There is no case of Koreans wearing China's winding or triangular edge outfits and dresses together. In northern regions, women usually wore pants but ancient Korean women wore them as a way of mixed style by wearing dresses above them or together with dresses. Therefore, it is difficult to conclude that ancient Korean dressing is descended from Chinese garment or neither from northern region's ancient custom.
It can be seen from the content above that ancient Korean pants and dress styles and their applications, which trace back to Old Joseon Period, exist in various periods and that they are Korea's unique dressing style that cannot be observed in Chinese nor northern region's dressing style.
When comparing in detail, it is often proved that many cultural phenomena that are known to be generated by Chinese or northern peoples' influence are actually originally created by Koreans. Such mistakes are generated because conclusions are reached with data and analysis under the basis that Korean culture comes from China or northern region instead of making tradition or influence theory based on recent scientific data and knowledge.
Therefore, when researching dressing culture as well as other Korean culture, it is wrong to make theories by finding similar or identical characteristics between Korean dressing culture and those of China or northern region while rejecting recent information that are based on scientific studies. In addition, study results of dressing culture that are both objective and reasonable must not be academically distorted or ignored without being developed into arguable research due to academical stereotypes.

영어초록

This paper focuses on the content and level of Old Joseon dressing culture, a country having comparatively pure culture of its own, by comparing with that of other neighboring countries. As a result, it was identified that the common view of the original form of ancient Korean garments being descended from garments of China or barbarian garments of northern China was not true.
The Old Joseon's dressing style can be summed up as followed. The Old Joseon people wore byun(弁), check(幘), or jeolpung(折風) in almost all of the regions around the Korean Peninsula and Manchuria. The ancient Koreans seemed to practice the same customs by considering the fact that the four countries, ancient Korea, Northern Buyeo, Beckjae, Shila inhabiting in the Korean Peninsula and Manchuria, placed a feather on their jeolpung. Later, the ruling class used feathers made of gold, silver, or gilt bronze.
In Old Joseon, people sewed round shaped or leaf shaped ornamental buttons on not only their hats but also on their clothes, armors, shoes, and bow cases, or made them as earrings altogether forming a magnificent and high-standard dressing style since 25th century. This dressing style is a distinctive feature of the ancient Koreans that cannot be seen in China or other northern regions. Later, round or leaf shaped ornaments with jeolpung became a major style of gold crowns. Therefore, it can be said that gold crowns are not accomplished by the external influence, but instead an expression of ancient Korean peoples' intrinsic style, leaf-looking ornamental button style, and trunk style through their ceremonies as well as the widespread change in hats.
Ancient Korean peoples' outfit is categorized as sam(衫), yoo(襦), and poh(袍). Men wore sam, women yoo, and poh, which is characterized by its long and wide sleeves, was worn both by men and women.
Closure and sleeves were important factors in discussing the origin of ancient Korean dressing. Old Joseon people wore large sleeves and this was followed later by ancient Korea, Bekjae, and Shila. Such comparison and inspection on closure and sleeves are important factors in revising the traditionally accepted theory of ancient Koreans' dressing being originated from garments of northern Chinese barbarians.
Pants and dresses, which are ancient Koreans' lower garments, are not the products of Chinese or northern region's influence, but instead an intrinsic inheritance of Koreans tracing back to the Old Joseon Period. Ancient Korean men wore pants as outfits and women wore them inside their dresses.
The Chinese mainly wore narrow pants since Sang(商) Period until Spring and Autumn(春秋戰國) Period. During Jin and Han(秦․漢) Period, they wore relatively wider pants, but tied them at the knees. Nevertheless, such Chinese styled pants are not seen in ancient Korean dressing.
Regardless of class, ancient Koreans tied their pants at the end during 6th century until they started to stitch around their pants instead of tying in 7th century. There were wide and normal pants and long pants and pants that were tied under the knees. It is thought that the width and length are differentiated for convenience in different types of work rather than a way of showing social status.
Like pants, it has been cleared that ancient Koreans' dress style was not a product of Chinese or northern region's influence. The characteristics of ancient Koreans' dress style are as followed. Ancient Korean women always wore pants as undergarments and dresses as outfits and these dresses were largely divided into those with lines at the waist and others with lines at the edge.
The following differences appear when comparing ancient Korean dresses and Chinese and norther region's dresses. Only women wore dresses in ancient Korea, but both men and women wore them in China. Both ancient Koreans and Chinese wore dresses under outfits and upper garments. But, Chinese upper garments were short in length and did not have stitches while ancient Korean upper garments were long and all dresses had stitches around the edges. There is no case of Koreans wearing China's winding or triangular edge outfits and dresses together. In northern regions, women usually wore pants but ancient Korean women wore them as a way of mixed style by wearing dresses above them or together with dresses. Therefore, it is difficult to conclude that ancient Korean dressing is descended from Chinese garment or neither from northern region's ancient custom.
It can be seen from the content above that ancient Korean pants and dress styles and their applications, which trace back to Old Joseon Period, exist in various periods and that they are Korea's unique dressing style that cannot be observed in Chinese nor northern region's dressing style.
When comparing in detail, it is often proved that many cultural phenomena that are known to be generated by Chinese or northern peoples' influence are actually originally created by Koreans. Such mistakes are generated because conclusions are reached with data and analysis under the basis that Korean culture comes from China or northern region instead of making tradition or influence theory based on recent scientific data and knowledge.
Therefore, when researching dressing culture as well as other Korean culture, it is wrong to make theories by finding similar or identical characteristics between Korean dressing culture and those of China or northern region while rejecting recent information that are based on scientific studies. In addition, study results of dressing culture that are both objective and reasonable must not be academically distorted or ignored without being developed into arguable research due to academical stereotypes.

참고자료

· 없음