서양 궁중복 여성드레스 바디스 쉐이핑(bodice shaping)에 영향을 미친 파스닝(fastening)과 구성 (TheEffectofFasteningandConstructioninShapingWestern Women'sCourtDressBodices)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국복식학회
· 수록지 정보 : 복식 / 68권 / 5호 / 22 ~ 39페이지
· 저자명 : 김가현, 이효진

초록

This study aimed to analyze the functional roles of fastening and constructive elements that affected the bodice shaping of women’s court clothing in the early modern era. Despite the limited development of reliable tailoring in the early modern era, these elements offered the essence of aristocratic aesthetics by concretely providing a visualization of tight fit. Thus, fastening and constructive elements affected women’s court dresses significantly. The method of study included an exploration of theoretical background based on a literature review of related books and papers. Based on this, paintings and pictures of relics were used for further analytical purposes. Results revealed that in terms of fastening, first, the lacing contributed to shaping by pushing up the breasts while tightening waist slimly. Second, the hooks and eyes completed the tight fit, covering the body closely and sturdily. Third, buttons adjusted a high-neckline bodice to form fitness, which was stronger in ornamental terms rather than functionality. Fourth, pins were used to fix a stomacher. This was applied simply to fix the clothes rather than directly affecting bodice shaping. As for constructive elements, first, the patterns were divided into multiple pieces through tailoring. This worked to shape the bodice to fit the body tightly and minimized the loss of expensive cloth materials. Second, a stomacher was made of thick fabrics and other materials and was applied to the front of the bodice to flatten the stomach while pushing up the breasts. Third, the quilting method applying frames to bodices and corsets was effective at enabling firm shaping. The study is significant in its analysis, the results of which show that as for the fastening roles and construction elements in bodice shaping in the early modern era, the constructive elements that resulted in specific functions of maintaining tight fit operated as unique characteristics of this era.

영어초록

This study aimed to analyze the functional roles of fastening and constructive elements that affected the bodice shaping of women’s court clothing in the early modern era. Despite the limited development of reliable tailoring in the early modern era, these elements offered the essence of aristocratic aesthetics by concretely providing a visualization of tight fit. Thus, fastening and constructive elements affected women’s court dresses significantly. The method of study included an exploration of theoretical background based on a literature review of related books and papers. Based on this, paintings and pictures of relics were used for further analytical purposes. Results revealed that in terms of fastening, first, the lacing contributed to shaping by pushing up the breasts while tightening waist slimly. Second, the hooks and eyes completed the tight fit, covering the body closely and sturdily. Third, buttons adjusted a high-neckline bodice to form fitness, which was stronger in ornamental terms rather than functionality. Fourth, pins were used to fix a stomacher. This was applied simply to fix the clothes rather than directly affecting bodice shaping. As for constructive elements, first, the patterns were divided into multiple pieces through tailoring. This worked to shape the bodice to fit the body tightly and minimized the loss of expensive cloth materials. Second, a stomacher was made of thick fabrics and other materials and was applied to the front of the bodice to flatten the stomach while pushing up the breasts. Third, the quilting method applying frames to bodices and corsets was effective at enabling firm shaping. The study is significant in its analysis, the results of which show that as for the fastening roles and construction elements in bodice shaping in the early modern era, the constructive elements that resulted in specific functions of maintaining tight fit operated as unique characteristics of this era.

참고자료

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