1890년대와 1900년대 여성복 재킷 소매 패턴형태연구 (A Study on Women’s Jacket Sleeve Patterns of the 1890s and 1900s)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 대한가정학회
· 수록지 정보 : Human Ecology Research / 52권 / 1호 / 55 ~ 62페이지
· 저자명 : 박소진, 천종숙

초록

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women’s jackets from the end of the19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns.
The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women’scostume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis ofthe directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern weremeasured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women’s jacketsin the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s’ sleeves. The sleevesof the 1890s’ women’s jackets were 6–11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s’ jackets. Theunder-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s’ sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s’ sleeve. The outseam angleof the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s’ sleeve pattern. The elbow curve ofthe women’s jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseamangle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women’s jacketsleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

영어초록

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women’s jackets from the end of the19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns.
The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women’scostume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis ofthe directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern weremeasured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women’s jacketsin the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s’ sleeves. The sleevesof the 1890s’ women’s jackets were 6–11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s’ jackets. Theunder-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s’ sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s’ sleeve. The outseam angleof the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s’ sleeve pattern. The elbow curve ofthe women’s jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseamangle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women’s jacketsleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

참고자료

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