1. PM (Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum)그림 1. Pierson-Moskowitz spectrumS( omega )omegaS _{PM} (w)= {4 pi ... } : Pierson-Moskowitz spectrumPHI _{J} : peakedness function of the Jonswap spectrumK : a factor such ... ^{3} H _{S} ^{2}} over {T _{1} ^{4}} BULLET {1} over {w ^{5}} BULLET exp(- {16 pi ^{3}} over {T _{Z
among different wave frequencies of wave-lengths on the sea surface. The concept of a spectrum is based ... on work by Joseph Fourier (1768 - 1830), who showed that almost any function ζ(t) (or ζ(x) if you