조선초 관복제 정립과 禮의 법제화 (Legalization of Li：Establishment of the Official Uniform System in the Early Joseon Dynasty)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 연세사학연구회
· 수록지 정보 : 학림 / 50권 / 99 ~ 134페이지
· 저자명 : 김윤정

초록

관복은 종묘·사직 의례와 같이 국가 근간이 되는 의례 활동의 필수품이자 관료의 권위와 직결된 물품이다. 따라서 관복제의 정비는 집권체제의 확립 및 그 체제가 추구하고자 하였던 지향점을 보여준다. 태조~세조대에 걸쳐 면복이 정비되면서 그것을 착용할 수 있는 사람은 왕과 세자로 국한되었다. 왕실은 차기 왕위 계승권자와 왕위에 재위한 자만이 면복을 착용하도록 하여, 면복은 왕위를 가시적으로 보여주는 상징물이 되었다. 즉 면복의 착용만으로 王者와 신료의 구분짓기가 가능하였다. 한편 조회와 일반 공무 수행 등에 착용되는 ‘공복’은 점차 약식 행사에만 착용하는 관복이 되었고, 일반 조회, 진현, 사행 등에는 일반 단령포에 사모를 착용하는 ‘常服’이 분화되었다. 하지만 상복의 단령포는 별다른 규제가 없었기에 관복의 무질서함은 지속적으로 문제되었고, 태종~세종대에 걸쳐 복색 제한 조치가 반복적으로 이루어졌다. 그리고 관리들의 품질의 구분은 흉배를 달게 함으로써 과거에는 존재하지 않던 문무관의 구분, 3개의 복색으로 3단계 위차만을 구분하던 것이 아닌 각 품을 보다 가시적으로 드러내는 방식이 도입되었다. 즉, 문무관 및 품계와 같은 관료체제 내 ‘구분짓기’가 공무복의 정비과정에서 확인된다.

영어초록

Official garbs are essential for ceremonial activities that are the foundation of the state, such as Jongmyo and Sajik ceremonies, and are directly related to the authority of bureaucrats. As such, the maintenance of the official uniform system was directly related to the establishment of the system of those in power, while also demonstrating the direction the ruling system was trying to pursue. From the Taejo to Sejo dynasties, the tradition of myeonbok, or the official attire of the royal family, was upheld, and only the king and the crown prince were allowed to wear them. However, the royal court only allowed the next heir to the throne and those who reigned on the throne to wear myeonbok, and thus such attire soon became a visible symbol of the throne. In other words, it was possible to distinguish a king from his vassals just by seeing who was wearing myeonbok.
Meanwhile, the official attire worn for assemblies and general public duties gradually became the official uniform worn only for informal events. For example, official attire, which was characterized by a basic set of robes and a headpiece, were differentiated for basic assemblies, presenting oneself to the royal court, and private affairs. However, since there were no restrictions on the set of robes for such clothes, the lack of uniformity across these official garments was continuously identified as a problem. To this end, restrictions on the color of such attire were repeatedly implemented from the period of the Taejong to Sejong dynasties. Furthermore, embroidered patches were added to the breast and back of official uniforms to make a distinction between the ranks of the officials. This introduced a method that had not existed in the past, which more visibly identified civil and military officials, rather than distinguishing only their three different positional ranks with three different colors. In other words, the upholding of this new system of official uniforms resulted in a classification system within the bureaucratic system, such as distinguishing civil officers and their ranks (upper and lower).

참고자료

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