대한제국기 대원수 상복(常服) 고증에 대한 연구 (A Study on the Historical Research of Generalissimo Gojong’s Normal Uniform of the Korean Empire)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 서울대학교 규장각한국학연구원
· 수록지 정보 : 한국문화 / 99호 / 285 ~ 326페이지
· 저자명 : 이지수, Nomura Michiyo, 이경미

초록

This study regards ascertained results from the historical research on the generalissimo’s normal uniform of the Korean Empire. The generalissimo is a class with the supreme power to command the entire army, enacted in 1899 when the ‘Rules of the Board of Marshals(원수부규칙:元帥府規則)’ were declared during the Korean Empire. Gojong(高宗) and Sunjong(純宗) whom ruled as generalissimos during this era wore both the traditional gonryongpo(곤룡포:袞龍袍) and the western style military uniform which were accepted as the generalissimo’s attire. The characteristic items of the generalissimo’s normal outfit is the German pickelhaube style helmet and the single-breasted jacket. Many previous studies have established the items that constitute the generalissimo’s normal wear and the regulations regarding it, but the detailed analysis of each item has not been dealt with. The purpose of this study was to analyze the generalissimo’s normal uniform and establish historical evidence for its reproduction.
The results of this study is as follows: First, four pictures of the outfit worn were studied. These pictures, presumed to be taken between April of 1900 and 1901, were taken by a westerner by the name of Morris. The picture of Gojong in the generalissimo’s normal wear was made public for the first time through the autobiography of Elias Burton Holmes. Gojong, Sunjong and prince Yongchin can be seen in the picture.
Second, the items consisting the generalissimo’s wear is a hat, a jacket, a sash, a pair of pants, epaulets, a shoulder cord. a sword belt, a sword, sword knot, a medal of the order of the Golden Ruler, and so on. To study these items, this study referred to the laws and regulations implemented or amended between 1895 to 1900 regarding the standards for the army’s general uniform, the Order of Medals, artifacts regarding the Board of Marshals, and documents on such artifacts overseas. The generalissimo helmet is a pickelhaube with an ornamental plate depicting a plum flower(Yihwa,이화:李花) in the center and althea flowers(Mugunghwa,무궁화:無窮花) and plum branches crisscrossing on each side. The spike, although not as clear in the picture, can be presumed to be the form of a spike on traditional helmets with jade egret embellishments on the crown of the helmet. The single-breasted jacket/coat has emblems of the generalissimo on the front buttons, sleeves, and collar: the jacket is closed with nine buttons that each have an althea pattern, the sleeves have 11 lines in a V shape, and the collar has five stars embroidered on it. The pants are fitted straight with three red stripes on the side. The epaulets are rectangular shapes with embroidered plum flower patterns. The shoulder cord is made of silk thread. The sword belt and sword are decorated with taegeuk patterns and the sword hilt is embellished with carvings of taegeuk, plum flower and althea flower patterns. The medal of the order of the Golden Ruler allowed only to the royal family is pinned on the chest.
Third, there are items in the normal wear of the generalissimo that signify the emperor. The first is the headwear, which is the pickelhaube that Gojong always wore when he was clothed in western clothing to show the image of an emperor. The pickelhaube engraved with patterns symbolizing the Korean Empire was worn only by generalissimos Gojong and Sunjong. The second is the badge of rank that symbolizes the emperor shown on the collar, sleeves and front buttons on the jacket. The five stars on the collar have been passed down to modern Korean military rank emblems.

영어초록

This study regards ascertained results from the historical research on the generalissimo’s normal uniform of the Korean Empire. The generalissimo is a class with the supreme power to command the entire army, enacted in 1899 when the ‘Rules of the Board of Marshals(원수부규칙:元帥府規則)’ were declared during the Korean Empire. Gojong(高宗) and Sunjong(純宗) whom ruled as generalissimos during this era wore both the traditional gonryongpo(곤룡포:袞龍袍) and the western style military uniform which were accepted as the generalissimo’s attire. The characteristic items of the generalissimo’s normal outfit is the German pickelhaube style helmet and the single-breasted jacket. Many previous studies have established the items that constitute the generalissimo’s normal wear and the regulations regarding it, but the detailed analysis of each item has not been dealt with. The purpose of this study was to analyze the generalissimo’s normal uniform and establish historical evidence for its reproduction.
The results of this study is as follows: First, four pictures of the outfit worn were studied. These pictures, presumed to be taken between April of 1900 and 1901, were taken by a westerner by the name of Morris. The picture of Gojong in the generalissimo’s normal wear was made public for the first time through the autobiography of Elias Burton Holmes. Gojong, Sunjong and prince Yongchin can be seen in the picture.
Second, the items consisting the generalissimo’s wear is a hat, a jacket, a sash, a pair of pants, epaulets, a shoulder cord. a sword belt, a sword, sword knot, a medal of the order of the Golden Ruler, and so on. To study these items, this study referred to the laws and regulations implemented or amended between 1895 to 1900 regarding the standards for the army’s general uniform, the Order of Medals, artifacts regarding the Board of Marshals, and documents on such artifacts overseas. The generalissimo helmet is a pickelhaube with an ornamental plate depicting a plum flower(Yihwa,이화:李花) in the center and althea flowers(Mugunghwa,무궁화:無窮花) and plum branches crisscrossing on each side. The spike, although not as clear in the picture, can be presumed to be the form of a spike on traditional helmets with jade egret embellishments on the crown of the helmet. The single-breasted jacket/coat has emblems of the generalissimo on the front buttons, sleeves, and collar: the jacket is closed with nine buttons that each have an althea pattern, the sleeves have 11 lines in a V shape, and the collar has five stars embroidered on it. The pants are fitted straight with three red stripes on the side. The epaulets are rectangular shapes with embroidered plum flower patterns. The shoulder cord is made of silk thread. The sword belt and sword are decorated with taegeuk patterns and the sword hilt is embellished with carvings of taegeuk, plum flower and althea flower patterns. The medal of the order of the Golden Ruler allowed only to the royal family is pinned on the chest.
Third, there are items in the normal wear of the generalissimo that signify the emperor. The first is the headwear, which is the pickelhaube that Gojong always wore when he was clothed in western clothing to show the image of an emperor. The pickelhaube engraved with patterns symbolizing the Korean Empire was worn only by generalissimos Gojong and Sunjong. The second is the badge of rank that symbolizes the emperor shown on the collar, sleeves and front buttons on the jacket. The five stars on the collar have been passed down to modern Korean military rank emblems.

참고자료

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